Quick Answer
Ironclad Plumbing built this checklist for Austin-area homeowners because most people let their builder warranty expire without checking the plumbing, and the problems that show up in new construction often don’t appear until month 8-12. Your builder warranty on plumbing is typically 1-2 years from closing. After that, everything is your responsibility. Most homeowners let the warranty expire without checking anything. Here’s exactly what to inspect, when to inspect it, and how to get the builder to fix problems before the clock runs out.
| What to Check | When | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Every shutoff valve in the house | Month 10-11 | Valves that have never been turned can seize. If they don’t work, the builder should replace them under warranty. |
| Under every sink for leaks | Month 10-11 | Slow leaks from supply connections or drain fittings may not appear until months of use. |
| Water heater connections and pan | Month 10-11 | Check for drips at supply lines, gas connector, and T&P valve. Verify the pan has a drain line if in the attic. |
| Water pressure | Month 10-11 | Test with a gauge. If over 80 PSI and no PRV was installed, the builder may need to add one. |
| All drains for flow speed | Month 10-11 | Run every sink, tub, and shower for 2 minutes. Slow drainage this early suggests a construction debris clog or incorrect slope. |
| Toilet stability | Month 10-11 | Sit on every toilet and rock gently. Any movement means the flange isn’t secure or the wax ring didn’t seal. |
| Hose bibs | Month 10-11 | Test every outdoor faucet. Check for leaks at the wall penetration from inside the house (garage, utility room). |
| Grout and caulk at tub/shower | Month 10-11 | Missing or cracked caulk at the tub/shower junction lets water behind the wall. Builder should re-caulk if deficient. |
| Water heater function | Month 10-11 | Run multiple fixtures simultaneously. Does the heater keep up? If you’re getting lukewarm water with two showers running, the unit may be undersized for the home. |
| Sewer line camera inspection | Month 11 | Optional but smart. A $275 camera inspection documents the sewer line condition while still under warranty. If construction debris was left in the line (it happens), the builder fixes it. |
Why This Matters
Builders in the Austin metro are constructing at high volume. Leander, Hutto, Kyle, Buda, Liberty Hill, and Georgetown are among the fastest-growing communities in Texas. That growth means crews are working fast, subcontractors are juggling multiple sites, and quality control varies.
Most new-home plumbing is fine. The materials are new, the code is current, and the work was inspected. But “fine” and “perfect” are different things, and the problems that do exist in new construction often don’t show up until 6-12 months of use.
The builder warranty exists for exactly this reason. But it has a hard expiration date. If you don’t inspect before that date, you inherit every defect at your own cost.
The Month 10-11 Inspection (Do This Before Your Warranty Expires)
Schedule this inspection in month 10 or 11 of your first year in the home. This gives you time to file warranty claims and get them resolved before the 12-month mark.
You can do most of this yourself in about an hour. For anything you’re unsure about, hire a plumber for an independent inspection ($150-$250). The plumber works for you, not the builder, so their assessment is unbiased.
Shutoff Valves
Test every shutoff valve in the house. Under each sink (hot and cold), behind each toilet, at the water heater (both cold supply and gas valve), at the washing machine, and the main shutoff where the water line enters the house.
Turn each one fully off and back on. If a valve is stiff, won’t turn, or doesn’t stop the water completely, document it and submit a warranty claim. A valve that’s never been turned for a year may seize from mineral buildup. That’s a defect in a new home.
Under-Sink Connections
Get a flashlight and look under every sink in the house. Look at the supply connections (where the braided lines connect to the shutoff valves and to the faucet), the drain connections (the P-trap, the slip nuts, and the tailpiece from the drain), and the garbage disposal connections if applicable.
What you’re looking for: any moisture, any mineral deposits (white crusty buildup, which indicates a slow leak that’s been evaporating), any drips, and any connections that are visibly loose.
In new construction, the most common under-sink issue is a drain connection that wasn’t tightened enough. The slip nut on the P-trap is hand-tight and slowly works loose over months of use. A drip that’s been going for 8 months can rot the cabinet floor.
Water Heater
Check the water heater connections: cold water supply, hot water outlet, gas connector (gas units), T&P relief valve discharge pipe, and expansion tank (if installed).
Look for: drips at any connection, mineral deposits, rust stains, and water in the drain pan (if the unit is in the attic, there should be a pan with a drain line — if the pan has water in it, something is leaking).
Run the hot water at multiple fixtures simultaneously. In a properly sized system, you should have consistent hot water with two showers running at the same time. If the water goes lukewarm quickly, the water heater may be undersized for the home. This is a builder issue if the home was sold with the current water heater as part of the specifications.
Drains
Run every sink, tub, and shower for at least 2 minutes at full flow. Watch the drainage speed. In a new home with new pipe, drains should flow quickly with no gurgling, no slow emptying, and no backflow from one fixture when another is running.
If a drain is slow in a brand-new home, the cause is almost always one of two things: construction debris left in the drain line (drywall mud, PVC shavings, concrete), or incorrect drain slope (the pipe wasn’t installed at the proper angle).
Both are construction defects and should be covered under warranty. Document the slow drain with a video (phone video of water pooling in the tub or sink) and submit the warranty claim.
Toilets
Sit on every toilet and gently rock side to side and front to back. A toilet should not move at all. Any wobble means the flange connection isn’t secure, which means the wax ring isn’t sealing properly, which means sewer gas is (or will be) leaking at the base.
Also flush each toilet and watch: does it flush completely in one cycle, does the bowl refill to the proper level, does the tank stop filling within 60 seconds?
Water Pressure
Buy a $10 pressure gauge from any hardware store (screws onto a hose bib like a garden hose). Test the water pressure. Normal residential pressure is 40-80 PSI.
Over 80 PSI: Excessive pressure damages fixtures, appliances, and supply lines over time. If your new home has pressure over 80 PSI and no pressure reducing valve (PRV) was installed, that may be a code issue and a warranty claim. Some municipalities require a PRV when supply pressure exceeds 80 PSI.
Under 40 PSI: Unusually low for new construction on city water. May indicate a supply issue, a partially closed valve, or an undersized water line.
Hose Bibs (Outdoor Faucets)
Test each outdoor faucet. Turn it on full. Let it run for 30 seconds. Then turn it off and go inside the house to check the wall behind the hose bib from the interior (usually visible in the garage or utility room). Look for drips or moisture at the wall penetration. In new construction, the most common hose bib issue is an inadequate seal at the wall penetration that allows water to seep into the wall cavity during use.
Sewer Line (Optional but Recommended)
A pre-warranty-expiration sewer camera inspection costs $275 and documents the condition of the sewer line while the builder is still responsible. In new construction, the most common sewer issue is construction debris left in the line (concrete, dirt, pipe shavings) that doesn’t cause a problem immediately but creates a blockage point where waste accumulates over time.
If the camera shows debris, offsets, or improper connections, you have documentation to file a warranty claim. If the line is clean, you have baseline documentation for future reference.
How to File a Builder Warranty Claim
Step 1: Document the issue. Photos, videos, and written descriptions. Date everything.
Step 2: Submit in writing. Don’t just call the builder. Submit the claim in writing (email is fine) to create a record. Include: your address, your closing date, the warranty expiration date, a description of the issue, photos, and what you’re requesting.
Step 3: Be specific. “There’s a plumbing problem” is vague. “The hot water shutoff valve under the master bathroom sink does not turn off when fully rotated clockwise. Water continues to flow. This valve has never been turned since closing and should function as installed. I’m requesting replacement under the 1-year builder warranty.” That’s specific and hard to dismiss.
Step 4: Set a deadline. “Please schedule the repair within 14 business days.” Builders are busy. Without a deadline, your claim goes to the bottom of the pile.
Step 5: Follow up. If you don’t hear back within a week, follow up in writing. Reference the original submission date and reiterate the warranty expiration date. “My warranty expires on [date]. I submitted this claim on [date]. I haven’t received a response. Please confirm receipt and provide a timeline for resolution.”
Step 6: Escalate if needed. If the builder is unresponsive or denies a legitimate claim, you have options: contact the Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC), file a complaint with the BBB, file a complaint with the builder’s home office (if they’re a national builder like Lennar, DR Horton, Meritage, KB Home, Taylor Morrison), or consult a construction defect attorney for significant issues.
Common New-Construction Plumbing Problems in Austin
Hard water damage appearing early. Austin’s hard water starts leaving mineral deposits on fixtures, in water heaters, and inside supply lines from day one. By month 12, you may see white buildup on faucet aerators, shower heads, and around dishwasher seals. This is not a construction defect (it’s Austin’s water), but it is a reason to consider a water softener sooner rather than later. Hard water reduces the life of your brand-new water heater by 2-4 years.
Undersized water heater. Some builders install the minimum water heater that meets code. In a 4-bedroom, 3-bathroom home with a large soaking tub, a 40-gallon water heater may not keep up during peak usage. If you consistently run out of hot water with normal use patterns, document it and file a warranty claim. The builder may upgrade the unit or install a recirculation system.
Construction debris in drains. Drywall compound, PVC shavings, concrete, and dirt from the construction process can remain in drain lines even after the final inspection. This debris creates slow points where waste accumulates, leading to premature clogs in a system that should flow freely for years.
Loose connections. In a house with 50+ plumbing connections, the probability that every single one was torqued perfectly is low. The most common: slip nuts on drain traps, compression fittings on supply lines, and hose connections on washing machine and dishwasher supply.
Ironclad offers independent new-construction plumbing inspections for Austin-area homeowners. We check everything on this list and provide a written report you can use for warranty claims. Call (833) 597-1932 to schedule. No service visit fees.