Quick Answer
Find your problem. See what Ironclad charges. See what Austin companies charge. If your quote from anyone is way above the Austin range with no explanation, get a second quote. If it’s way below, ask what’s being skipped.
Quick-Scan Price Table
| Your Problem | What It’s Called | Ironclad Price | Austin Range | If You’re Quoted This, Ask Why |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clogged sink or shower drain | Drain cleaning (single fixture) | $175 | $125–$300 | Over $350 |
| Clogged main sewer line | Mainline drain cleaning | $300 | $200–$450 | Over $500 |
| Toilet won’t stop running | Toilet internal repair | $150 | $100–$250 | Over $300 |
| Toilet rocking / leaking at base | Toilet pull and reseat | $225 | $150–$325 | Over $400 |
| Need a new toilet installed | Toilet replacement | $450 | $300–$700 | Over $800 |
| Faucet dripping or leaking | Faucet repair (cartridge swap) | $175 | $125–$275 | Over $325 |
| Need a new faucet installed | Faucet replacement (standard) | $375 | $250–$550 | Over $650 |
| No hot water / heater leaking | Water heater replacement (50-gal gas, garage) | $2,200 | $1,400–$3,500 | Over $4,000 |
| Want to switch to tankless | Tankless install (full conversion) | $4,500 | $3,000–$6,500 | Over $7,000 |
| Garbage disposal broken | Disposal replacement (1/2 HP) | $350 | $225–$500 | Over $600 |
| Slow drains everywhere | Sewer camera inspection | $275 | $150–$400 | Over $500 |
| Sewer line needs repair | Sewer spot repair | $2,000 | $1,000–$3,500 | Over $4,000 without camera evidence |
| Water bill spiked / suspect leak | Leak detection | $350 | $200–$500 | Over $600 |
| Leak under slab foundation | Slab leak spot repair | $2,000 | $1,200–$3,500 | Over $4,000 without showing you evidence |
| Pipes need high-pressure cleaning | Hydro jetting | $450 | $300–$700 | Over $800 |
| Gas line for new appliance | Gas line run (short, same room) | $400 | $250–$600 | Over $750 |
| Hard water destroying fixtures | Whole-house water softener | $2,500 | $1,500–$4,000 | Over $5,000 |
| Outdoor faucet broken | Hose bib replacement | $200 | $125–$300 | Over $375 |
| Water pressure issues | PRV replacement | $400 | $250–$550 | Over $650 |
| Emergency plumber now | After-hours dispatch + repair | $200 dispatch + repair | $150–$400 dispatch + repair | Dispatch over $500 before any work |
How to Read This Table
The Ironclad Price column is what we charge for a standard, no-complications version of that job. It includes materials, labor, cleanup, and warranty. No service call fee. No hidden add-ons.
The Austin Range column is what you’ll see from other licensed, insured plumbing companies across the Austin metro. The low end is typically a smaller operation with less overhead. The high end is typically a larger company with more infrastructure, marketing spend, and/or commission-based techs. Both ends can do good work. Both ends can also cut corners (low end) or overcharge (high end).
The “Ask Why” column is the number where the quote has left the normal band and you should ask the company to explain specifically what is driving the cost. There may be a legitimate reason (difficult access, code upgrades, premium parts). But if they can’t explain it clearly, get another quote.
Where Ironclad sits: We price in the middle of the Austin range on most jobs. We’re not the cheapest and we’re not the most expensive. We don’t discount to win jobs and we don’t inflate to pad margins. Our overhead is real (insurance, warranty, dispatch, licensed techs) but we don’t carry the cost of commissioned salespeople or a high-pressure sales infrastructure.
Where Your Money Goes
Every plumbing bill has the same five components. The split varies by job size, but here’s the general shape.
| Component | % of Your Bill | What It Pays For |
|---|---|---|
| Materials / parts | 15–35% | The physical stuff in your house. Cheap on small repairs ($3 wax ring), expensive on equipment jobs ($700 water heater). |
| Technician labor | 10–20% | The person’s time on site. Loaded cost to the company is $45–$65/hr including taxes, benefits, workers comp. |
| Truck / drive / dispatch | 12–18% | Fuel, vehicle, commercial insurance, drive time, someone answering the phone when you called. |
| Overhead | 18–28% | General liability insurance, licensing, warranty reserves, tools, software, training, admin. |
| Company profit | 10–22% | What keeps the business running. Below 10%, corners start getting cut. Above 22%, you’re funding something other than your plumbing. |
The key insight: On small repair jobs (under $300), the parts are almost nothing. A toilet flapper is $8. A fill valve is $12. A faucet cartridge is $25. You’re paying for the truck to get there and the human to diagnose and fix it correctly. On equipment jobs (water heaters, softeners), materials are 30–40% of the bill and the markup on the unit is where the company makes its margin.
Detailed Breakdowns
Drain Cleaning (Single Fixture)
Ironclad price: $175 | Austin range: $125–$300
This is a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower, or tub drain. Tech runs a cable machine through the line. 30–45 minutes.
Where your $175 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $175.00
Credit card processing (3%): - $5.25
Net to company: $169.75
Materials / consumables: - $8 (5%)
Technician labor (45 min): - $38 (22%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $52 (31%)
Overhead (ins, warranty, lic): - $42 (25%)
Company profit: $29.75 (17%)
What makes it cost more than $175:
- It’s the mainline, not a single fixture. Bigger equipment, more time. That’s a $300 job, not $175. If the tech starts at a single fixture and discovers the clog is in the main, you should get an updated price before they switch to the bigger equipment.
- They need to pull the toilet to access the line. Adds ~$75 (30 min labor + new wax ring).
- After hours. Emergency premium adds $100–$200.
What makes it cost less than $175:
Almost nothing. This is the floor for a licensed plumber with real overhead. If someone charges $99, they’re either losing money (to get in your house and upsell), uninsured, or both.
The $99 trap: Companies advertising $99 drain cleaning spend $200+ in ads to acquire that call. They lose money at $99. The play: tech snakes the nearest cleanout for 15 minutes. If the clog is deeper (it usually is), the real quote comes after. You already have someone in your kitchen. The $99 was the door, not the price.
Toilet Internal Repair
Ironclad price: $150 | Austin range: $100–$250
Running toilet, weak flush, won’t fill. Tech replaces flapper, fill valve, or flush valve. 20–40 minutes.
Where your $150 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $150.00
Credit card processing: - $4.50
Net to company: $145.50
Materials (fill valve/flapper): - $14 (10%)
Technician labor (30 min): - $28 (19%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $52 (36%)
Overhead: - $35 (24%)
Company profit: $16.50 (11%)
Profit margin is thin on small jobs. This is volume work.
What makes it cost more than $150:
- Flush valve replacement (not just flapper). More parts, more time. ~$200–$225.
- Toilet needs to be pulled and reseated (rocking, leaking at base, broken flange). Different job entirely. ~$225.
Can you do this yourself? A flapper swap is one of the few things most people can handle. $8 part, YouTube video, 15 minutes. If that doesn’t fix it, the problem is deeper and worth calling a pro.
Water Heater Replacement (50-Gallon Gas Tank, Garage)
Ironclad price: $2,200 | Austin range: $1,400–$3,500
Old heater drained and removed, new 50-gal gas tank installed with expansion tank, new water flex lines, gas connector, all to code. Tested. Old unit hauled away.
Where your $2,200 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $2,200.00
Credit card processing: - $66.00
Net to company: $2,134.00
Materials (heater unit + expan
tank + flex lines + gas conn
+ fittings): - $720 (33%)
Technician labor (2.5 hrs): - $130 (6%)
Permit: - $100 (5%)
Truck / drive / disposal: - $115 (5%)
Overhead: - $480 (22%)
Company profit: $589 (27%)
This is a higher-margin job. The unit costs us ~$500–$650 wholesale. We charge ~$720 installed which covers selection, transport, and warranty handling. That margin is why you’ll see water heater replacement pushed hard by some companies.
What makes it cost more than $2,200:
- Attic install. Hauling a 150-lb tank upstairs, working in confined hot space, drain pan requirements. Adds $300–$600. This is real labor, not padding.
- Gas line or venting needs upgrading to meet current code. Legitimate if the original install was under old code. Ask them to show you specifically what doesn’t comply. Adds $150–$400.
- Larger unit. 75-gallon or high-recovery. $200–$400 more on the unit.
What makes it cost less than $2,200:
- 40-gallon instead of 50-gallon. ~$100–$200 less.
- Bundled with other work. Multiple jobs on one visit reduces per-job overhead.
The upsell to watch for: “Your water heater is 8 years old, it could go any time.” That is not a diagnosis. Ask: “What is actually wrong with it right now?” Real failure signs: leaking from the tank body (not from connections or the relief valve), rust-colored hot water, loud popping/rumbling from heavy sediment, pilot light won’t stay lit after repeated relighting. “It’s old” is a sales pitch, not a problem.
Why does the Austin range go down to $1,400? A small operator with minimal overhead, buying the cheapest unit, skipping the permit, and offering minimal warranty can do this job at $1,400 and still make money. You might get perfectly fine work. Or you might get a cheap unit, no code compliance, and no warranty. The low end of the range is not automatically a bad deal, but you need to know what’s included and what’s not.
Why does it go up to $3,500? A large company with commissioned techs, heavy advertising, and a sales-infrastructure model. The job is physically the same. The extra $1,300 is paying for their marketing department, sales commission, and higher overhead. This is also not automatically a bad deal if you value the larger company’s availability, financing, and operational polish. But you should know what you’re paying for.
Tankless Water Heater (Full Conversion)
Ironclad price: $4,500 | Austin range: $3,000–$6,500
Tank removed, tankless unit wall-mounted, gas line upsized (almost always necessary), new sealed stainless venting (completely different from tank vent), electrical for control board, condensate drain, tested.
Where your $4,500 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $4,500.00
Credit card processing: - $135.00
Net to company: $4,365.00
Materials (tankless unit + gas
line materials + SS venting +
electrical + condensate +
fittings): - $1,700 (38%)
Technician labor (5-6 hrs): - $310 (7%)
Permit: - $125 (3%)
Truck / drive / disposal: - $140 (3%)
Overhead: - $700 (16%)
Company profit: $1,390 (31%)
Why it’s so much more than a tank: The unit is more expensive ($900–$2,000 vs $500–$700). But the real cost is the conversion: gas line upgrade (tankless demands far more BTUs), completely different venting, electrical, and condensate drain. These are real costs. A plumber quoting $2,500 for a full conversion is either skipping the gas line upgrade (which is a code violation and a safety issue) or losing money.
What makes it cost more than $4,500:
- Long gas line run from the meter. If the meter is on the opposite side of the house, upsizing that run adds $500–$1,500.
- Difficult vent path. Interior closet with no nearby exterior wall means a longer, more complex vent run.
Should you even go tankless? If you’re a 1-2 person household with a working tank, probably not. Cost difference ($4,500 vs $2,200) takes 8–15 years to recoup through energy savings. Tankless makes sense for: high simultaneous hot water demand, space recovery, new construction where everything can be sized from scratch.
Faucet Replacement (Standard Kitchen or Bath)
Ironclad price: $375 | Austin range: $250–$550
Old faucet removed, new standard faucet installed, supply lines connected, tested. 45–75 minutes.
Where your $375 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $375.00
Credit card processing: - $11.25
Net to company: $363.75
Materials (faucet + supply
lines + plumber's putty): - $95 (26%)
Technician labor (1 hr): - $48 (13%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (16%)
Overhead: - $85 (23%)
Company profit: $75.75 (21%)
What makes it cost more than $375:
- Premium faucet. A Moen Motionsense or Kohler touchless runs $300–$600. That pushes the total to $550–$750. The labor is the same; you’re paying for a nicer fixture.
- Shutoff valves under the sink are seized. Old gate valves that don’t actually turn need replacing. Adds ~$75–$125 per valve. Common in older Austin homes and usually worth doing while someone is already under there.
- Corroded supply connections. Extra labor to deal with frozen fittings. ~$50–$75 more.
Garbage Disposal Replacement
Ironclad price: $350 | Austin range: $225–$500
Old disposal removed, new 1/2 HP unit installed on existing bracket. 30–45 minutes.
Where your $350 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $350.00
Credit card processing: - $10.50
Net to company: $339.50
Materials (disposal unit +
plumber's putty): - $95 (27%)
Technician labor (40 min): - $35 (10%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (17%)
Overhead: - $75 (22%)
Company profit: $74.50 (21%)
What makes it cost more than $350:
- You want a beefier unit. 3/4 HP adds ~$50. 1 HP InSinkErator Evolution adds ~$150–$250. Quieter, more powerful, longer manufacturer warranty.
- Mounting bracket doesn’t fit the new unit. Bracket replacement adds ~$75.
Simple job. If someone quotes $600+ for a standard disposal swap, get another quote.
Sewer Camera Inspection
Ironclad price: $275 | Austin range: $150–$400
Camera on flexible cable goes through your sewer line. Tech records what they see. You should see the footage live and get a copy.
Where your $275 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $275.00
Credit card processing: - $8.25
Net to company: $266.75
Materials (minimal): - $5 (2%)
Equipment depreciation
(camera = $8,000–$15,000): - $30 (11%)
Technician labor (45–60 min): - $45 (17%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (22%)
Overhead: - $65 (24%)
Company profit: $61.75 (23%)
This is a diagnostic, not a repair. You’re buying information. That $275 of information is what tells you whether you need a $300 fix or a $10,000 replacement.
Rule: Never agree to major sewer work without camera footage. If someone says your sewer line needs replacing and they haven’t run a camera, get a second opinion. The footage should be shown to you. Ask for screenshots or clips.
Leak Detection
Ironclad price: $350 | Austin range: $200–$500
Electronic listening, pressure testing, sometimes thermal imaging. Locates hidden leaks without tearing open walls or floors. Skilled diagnostic work.
What makes it cost more than $350:
- It’s a slab leak. Under your concrete foundation. More equipment, more time. ~$400–$500 for detection. Repair is a completely separate quote.
- Multiple possible locations need testing. More zones = more time.
Slab leak repair reality: If detection confirms a slab leak, you’re looking at: spot repair through the slab (~$1,500–$2,500), reroute through walls/attic (~$2,500–$4,500), or full repipe ($6,000–$15,000+). Single leak on healthy pipe = spot repair. Systemic pipe deterioration = repipe. Ask to see the evidence. A company that jumps to “full repipe” without demonstrating systemic failure is either lazy or running a margin play.
Hydro Jetting
Ironclad price: $450 | Austin range: $300–$700
High-pressure water (3,000–4,000 PSI) scours the inside of drain/sewer lines. More thorough than cable cleaning. Effective for grease, mineral deposits, root intrusion.
What makes it cost more than $450:
- Mainline vs fixture line. Mainline jetting takes longer and uses more water. ~$500–$650.
- Combined with camera inspection. Smart to do both, and bundled is cheaper than separate. Ask for a package price.
When it’s NOT appropriate: On clay pipe with cracks (pressure worsens them), on Orangeburg pipe (will shred it), on any pipe where integrity is questionable. A camera inspection before jetting is standard practice. If a plumber proposes jetting without checking the pipe condition first, that’s a concern.
Gas Line (Short Run, Same Room)
Ironclad price: $400 | Austin range: $250–$600
Connecting a gas range, dryer, or similar appliance where the gas stub is already in the room. Requires permit.
What makes it cost more than $400:
- New line from the meter (outdoor kitchen, pool heater, generator). Distance is the cost driver. A 50-foot run vs a 5-foot connection is a completely different job: $800–$1,500+.
- Gas line needs to pass through finished walls or ceiling. Adds drywall patching or routing complexity.
Non-negotiable: Gas line work requires a licensed plumber and a permit. If someone skips the permit, that’s not a cost saving. That’s a safety risk with legal consequences.
Whole-House Water Softener
Ironclad price: $2,500 | Austin range: $1,500–$4,000
Unit installed on main water line, drain connected, programmed, tested. Includes the softener unit.
Austin water runs 15–25 grains per gallon hardness. That’s very hard. It destroys fixtures, shortens water heater life, and leaves white buildup on everything.
What makes it cost more than $2,500:
- Combo system (softener + carbon filter). Removes hardness AND chlorine/sediment. ~$3,500–$5,000.
- Difficult installation location. If the main line entry point is in a tight space or the drain connection requires a long run, labor increases.
The water treatment upsell: This is one of the most oversold services in plumbing. Some companies use scare tactics about water quality to sell $5,000+ systems. Before buying anything: get your water tested independently. Austin Water publishes annual quality reports and will test your water. Know your hardness number. A standard softener handles 15–25 GPG hardness. You probably don’t need a $5,000 combo system unless your water has specific chemical or sediment issues beyond hardness.
Emergency Service Call
Ironclad price: $200 dispatch + repair at standard rates | Austin range: $150–$400 dispatch + repair
The dispatch fee gets a truck to your house after hours. The repair itself is priced the same as daytime work (or close to it). So a midnight burst pipe repair might total: $200 dispatch + $350 pipe repair = $550.
Things that are emergencies (call now): Burst pipe with water running, sewage in the house, gas smell, complete water loss, water heater actively flooding.
Things that are NOT emergencies (wait until morning, save $200): Dripping faucet, slow drain, running toilet, water heater making noise but still producing hot water, low water pressure. Waiting saves you the dispatch premium.
How to Use This Page
- Find your problem in the quick-scan table at the top.
- See Ironclad’s price. That’s what we charge for a standard version.
- See the Austin range. That’s what you’ll see from other companies.
- Check the “Ask Why” threshold. If your quote exceeds that number, ask the company to explain what’s different.
- Read the 2-3 modifiers for your specific service. If any apply to your situation, expect the price to be higher than baseline and now you know roughly how much higher and why.
- Get a written quote and compare it to these numbers.
- If a quote is more than 50% above Ironclad’s price with no clear complications, get a second quote.
Ironclad publishes these numbers because we think you should know what you’re paying for. Compare us against anyone. Compare anyone against us.
Questions? Call (833) 597-1932. No service visit fees. We’ll give you a specific number for your situation.
Add these to the quick-scan table and as detailed breakdowns below the existing 20.
Detailed Breakdowns
Water Heater Repair (Not Replacement)
Ironclad price: $250 | Austin range: $150–$400
Your water heater isn’t producing hot water, or it’s producing less than it used to, or the pilot light keeps going out. The unit isn’t leaking from the tank. This is a repair situation, not a replacement.
Common repairs and what they involve:
| The Fix | What It Is | Parts Cost | Typical Installed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thermocouple replacement | The sensor that tells the gas valve the pilot is lit. When it fails, the pilot won’t stay on. | $8–$20 | $150–$200 |
| Gas control valve replacement | The brain of a gas water heater. Controls gas flow to burner and pilot. | $80–$200 | $200–$350 |
| Heating element replacement (electric) | The rod that heats the water. Electric heaters have 1-2 of them. | $15–$30 each | $150–$250 |
| Thermostat replacement (electric) | Controls temperature. Usually replaced alongside elements. | $10–$25 | $125–$200 |
| Dip tube replacement | Directs cold water to the bottom of the tank. When it breaks, you get lukewarm water. | $10–$20 | $150–$225 |
| Anode rod replacement | Sacrificial rod that prevents tank corrosion. Maintenance item, not a repair. | $20–$40 | $125–$200 |
| Relief valve replacement (T&P valve) | Safety valve that releases pressure if tank overheats. Dripping = usually needs replacing. | $15–$35 | $125–$200 |
Where your $250 goes at Ironclad (example: thermocouple + diagnostic):
You pay: $250.00
Credit card processing: - $7.50
Net to company: $242.50
Materials (thermocouple): - $15 (6%)
Technician labor (45 min): - $38 (15%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (24%)
Overhead: - $70 (28%)
Company profit: $59.50 (24%)
The critical question: repair or replace?
This is where upselling lives. A water heater tech who replaces every unit they look at is running a margin play. A $250 repair that extends the heater’s life by 3-5 years is better for you than a $2,200 replacement.
General rule of thumb:
- Heater is under 8 years old: Almost always repair unless the tank itself is leaking.
- Heater is 8-12 years old: Repair makes sense if the fix is under $400 and the tank isn’t showing signs of corrosion (rust-colored water, visible rust on tank body, multiple prior repairs).
- Heater is over 12 years: Replacement becomes the smarter call because you’re likely to face another repair within 1-2 years. But this is a guideline, not a rule. Some tanks last 15+ years.
- Tank is physically leaking from the body (not from connections): Replace. You cannot repair a leaking tank.
The upsell pattern: Tech shows up for a repair. Looks at the heater. Says “this unit is [age] years old, it’s at end of life, I really wouldn’t put any more money into it.” Then presents a $2,200-$4,500 replacement. That may be honest advice. Or it may be a $250 repair being turned into a $2,200 sale. Ask: “If you were spending your own money, would you repair this for $250 or replace it for $2,200?” Watch their face when they answer.
Shower Valve Replacement
Ironclad price: $400 | Austin range: $275–$600
Your shower won’t turn off completely, won’t mix hot and cold correctly, is stuck, or the handle is broken/stripped. The valve is the mechanism behind the wall that controls water flow and temperature. Replacing it means accessing the valve through the wall or through an access panel.
Where your $400 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $400.00
Credit card processing: - $12.00
Net to company: $388.00
Materials (valve cartridge or
full valve body + trim kit): - $85 (22%)
Technician labor (1.5 hrs): - $70 (18%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (15%)
Overhead: - $85 (22%)
Company profit: $88 (23%)
What makes it cost more than $400:
- No existing access panel. The plumber needs to cut through drywall or tile to reach the valve, then patch or cover the opening. If it’s tile, the patching cost alone can add $200-$500 depending on whether you need a tile worker afterward. If it’s drywall with an access panel, it’s straightforward.
- Full valve body replacement instead of just the cartridge. If the entire valve body is corroded or outdated (common in 1970s-1990s homes with old Moen or Delta units), the plumber replaces the whole assembly, not just the cartridge inside. Adds $75-$150 in parts and 30-60 min of labor.
- Upgrading to a pressure-balance or thermostatic valve. Modern code in many areas requires anti-scald protection. If your valve is old and doesn’t have it, the plumber may recommend (or be required to install) a pressure-balance valve. Adds $50-$100 to the valve cost.
What makes it cost less than $400:
- It’s just the cartridge, and there’s an existing access panel. Cartridge swaps with good access can be done in 30-45 minutes. ~$250-$325.
DIY note: Shower cartridge replacement is technically doable if you have an access panel and can identify the exact cartridge model. But if you get the wrong cartridge, strip the bonnet nut, or break the valve body, you’ve turned a $400 job into a $700 job. This is one where watching a YouTube video makes it look easier than it actually is.
Whole-House Repipe
Ironclad price: $8,500 | Austin range: $5,000–$15,000
All supply piping in the house replaced. Old pipe (copper, galvanized, polybutylene, CPVC) removed or abandoned and new pipe (usually PEX, sometimes copper) run to every fixture. This is a major project, typically 2-3 days for a standard Austin home.
Where your $8,500 goes at Ironclad (standard 3-bed, 2-bath, ~1,800 sq ft):
You pay: $8,500.00
Credit card processing: - $255.00
Net to company: $8,245.00
Materials (PEX pipe, fittings,
manifold, hangers, shutoffs,
escutcheons, misc): - $1,200 (14%)
Technician labor (2 plumbers
x 2.5 days): - $2,000 (24%)
Permit: - $150 (2%)
Truck / disposal / equipment: - $350 (4%)
Overhead: - $1,800 (21%)
Company profit: $2,745 (32%)
This is a high-margin job. The materials are relatively cheap (PEX pipe is $0.50-$1.50 per linear foot). The labor is the big cost, and even that is concentrated into 2-3 days. The profit margin reflects the complexity, the risk the plumber takes (any leak behind a wall is a callback), and the warranty obligation.
What makes it cost more than $8,500:
- Larger home. Every additional bathroom, fixture, and linear foot of pipe adds materials and labor. A 4-bed, 3-bath, 2,500 sq ft home might run $10,000-$12,000.
- Two-story home. Running pipe between floors is more complex than single-story.
- The old pipe is galvanized and corroded in the walls. Removal is harder. Sometimes the plumber can abandon the old pipe in place and run new PEX alongside it, which is faster. Sometimes the old pipe has to come out.
- Drywall repair is needed. The plumber cuts access holes to run new pipe. Patching and painting those holes is typically NOT included in the plumbing quote. Budget an additional $500-$2,000 for drywall/paint depending on how many access points and whether you DIY the patching or hire it out.
What makes it cost less than $8,500:
- Smaller home / fewer fixtures. A 2-bed, 1-bath might be $5,000-$6,500.
- Slab-on-grade with attic access. The plumber can run PEX through the attic to every fixture without going through walls in most cases. Faster, fewer access holes, less drywall damage.
When repipe is the right call vs when it’s overkill:
Repipe makes sense if:
- You have galvanized pipe (pre-1960s homes). It corrodes from the inside and restricts water flow. If your water pressure is dropping and the pipe is galvanized, it’s not going to get better.
- You have polybutylene pipe (gray plastic, 1978-1995). This material deteriorates and is prone to sudden failure. Many insurance companies won’t cover homes with polybutylene. Replacement is a smart move.
- You’ve had multiple pinhole leaks in copper in different locations. One leak is a repair. Three leaks in three years in different spots is systemic copper corrosion, often from Austin’s water chemistry.
Repipe is overkill if:
- You had one leak. Fix the leak. Monitor the system.
- Your home has copper that’s in good condition. Copper lasts 50-70 years when the water chemistry cooperates. Don’t replace functional pipe.
The repipe sales pitch to watch for: Some companies lead with repipe because the ticket is $8,000-$15,000 instead of $300 for a spot repair. If someone recommends a repipe after looking at one leak, get a second opinion. Ask them to explain what evidence shows the problem is systemic rather than localized.
Trenchless Sewer Lining (CIPP)
Ironclad price: $5,500 | Austin range: $3,500–$9,000
A resin-coated liner is inserted into the existing sewer pipe, inflated, and cured in place. Creates a new pipe inside the old one without digging up the yard, driveway, or landscaping. The old pipe stays in the ground as an outer shell.
Where your $5,500 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $5,500.00
Credit card processing: - $165.00
Net to company: $5,335.00
Materials (liner, resin, setup
materials): - $1,400 (25%)
Technician labor (1 day,
2-person crew): - $700 (13%)
Equipment (curing system,
camera, inversion drum): - $250 (5%)
Permit: - $125 (2%)
Truck / setup: - $200 (4%)
Overhead: - $950 (17%)
Company profit: $1,710 (31%)
What makes it cost more than $5,500:
- Longer run. Lining 80 feet of pipe costs more in materials and time than lining 40 feet. Price scales roughly linearly with length.
- Multiple sections or bends. Severe bends or offsets may require multiple liner sections with separate cures.
- Prep work needed. If roots or debris are heavy, hydro jetting or mechanical clearing is needed before lining. This may be quoted separately ($300-$600) or bundled.
What makes it cost less than $5,500:
- Short section only. Lining a 15-20 foot section rather than the full run. ~$3,000-$4,000.
When trenchless works vs when it doesn’t:
Trenchless lining works when:
- The pipe has cracks, root intrusion points, or minor offsets but has NOT collapsed.
- The pipe is relatively straight (gentle bends are fine, sharp 90-degree turns are problematic).
- You want to avoid excavating your yard, driveway, or landscaping.
Trenchless does NOT work when:
- The pipe has collapsed or is severely bellied (a low spot that traps waste). The liner follows the shape of the existing pipe. If the pipe has a belly, the liner will too.
- The pipe is Orangeburg (a tar-paper pipe used in the 1950s-1970s that literally disintegrates). You can’t line something that isn’t structurally there.
- The access points are blocked or inaccessible.
Trenchless vs excavation pricing comparison:
- Trenchless lining: $3,500-$9,000. No yard damage. 1 day.
- Full excavation and replacement: $5,000-$15,000+. Yard, driveway, or landscaping damage. Restoration costs on top. 2-5 days.
Trenchless costs more per linear foot of pipe, but the total project cost is often lower because there’s no excavation, no concrete repair, no landscape restoration. Ask for both options quoted side by side.
Main Water Line Repair / Replacement
Ironclad price: $2,500 | Austin range: $1,500–$5,000
The pipe that brings water from the city meter to your house. If it leaks, you may notice: a wet spot in the yard that never dries, unusually high water bills, low water pressure throughout the house, or the sound of running water when everything is off.
Where your $2,500 goes at Ironclad (standard repair/replacement, 30-50 ft run):
You pay: $2,500.00
Credit card processing: - $75.00
Net to company: $2,425.00
Materials (PEX or copper pipe,
fittings, meter connection,
shutoff valve): - $350 (14%)
Technician labor (4-6 hrs,
includes trenching): - $350 (14%)
Equipment (trencher rental
or hand dig): - $200 (8%)
Permit: - $100 (4%)
Truck / drive: - $125 (5%)
Overhead: - $500 (20%)
Company profit: $800 (32%)
What makes it cost more than $2,500:
- Long run from meter to house. A 100-foot run costs more in materials, trenching time, and labor than a 30-foot run. Can push the total to $4,000-$5,000.
- The line runs under a driveway, sidewalk, or hardscape. Boring under concrete is expensive: $500-$1,500 depending on distance and depth.
- The city-side connection needs replacement too. If the meter box, shutoff, or connection at the city main is damaged, that adds complexity and sometimes requires coordination with the water utility.
What makes it cost less than $2,500:
- Spot repair instead of full replacement. If the leak is in one accessible spot and the rest of the line is in good shape, a spot repair can be $800-$1,500.
Repair vs replace decision: If the line is copper and has a single leak at a joint or connection point, spot repair usually makes sense. If the line is galvanized (pre-1960s) or polybutylene and has failed, replace the whole run. If the line is copper and has pinhole leaks (indicating systemic corrosion), replace.
Dishwasher Installation
Ironclad price: $250 | Austin range: $150–$400
Existing connections (hot water supply, drain, electrical) are already in place under the sink. Tech connects the new dishwasher, tests for leaks, verifies drain.
Where your $250 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $250.00
Credit card processing: - $7.50
Net to company: $242.50
Materials (supply line, drain
hose clamp, misc fittings): - $15 (6%)
Technician labor (45 min): - $38 (15%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (24%)
Overhead: - $70 (28%)
Company profit: $59.50 (24%)
This assumes you already bought the dishwasher and the existing connections under the sink are compatible. The plumber hooks it up, not sells it to you.
What makes it cost more than $250:
- No existing connections. First-time dishwasher install requires running a hot water supply line, adding a drain connection to the sink drain, and electrical (which may require an electrician, not a plumber). Total for new rough-in + install: $500-$800.
- Old supply valve doesn’t work. Adding or replacing the shutoff valve under the sink adds ~$75-$125.
What makes it cost less than $250:
Nothing material. This is a simple connection job and $250 is the floor for having a licensed plumber do it.
Can you do this yourself? If the connections exist and the new dishwasher is the same brand/size as the old one, this is a realistic DIY project. The supply line screws on, the drain hose clamps on, and you push it into the cabinet. YouTube covers it well. Where people get into trouble: the supply connection leaks (cross-threaded), the drain hose isn’t looped high enough (causes backflow), or the dishwasher doesn’t fit the cabinet opening (measure first).
Sink Installation (Kitchen or Bathroom)
Ironclad price: $450 | Austin range: $300–$650
Old sink removed, new sink set, drain connected, faucet installed (if new), supply lines connected, tested. This is the plumbing portion. If the countertop needs cutting or modification, that’s a countertop fabricator’s job, not a plumber’s.
Where your $450 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $450.00
Credit card processing: - $13.50
Net to company: $436.50
Materials (drain assembly,
supply lines, putty/silicone,
misc fittings): - $45 (10%)
Technician labor (1.5 hrs): - $70 (16%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (13%)
Overhead: - $130 (29%)
Company profit: $131.50 (29%)
This assumes you already have the sink and faucet. The plumber installs them. If they’re supplying the sink and faucet, materials become 30-50% of the bill instead of 10%.
What makes it cost more than $450:
- Undermount sink installation. Undermounts require clips, adhesive, and precise alignment with the countertop cutout. More labor-intensive than drop-in. Adds ~$75-$150.
- Old drain plumbing doesn’t align with the new sink. Reconfiguring the P-trap or drain arm adds 30-60 minutes. ~$75-$125 more.
- Adding a garbage disposal at the same time. Bundle pricing: sink install + disposal should be ~$700 total instead of $450 + $350 separately. The labor overlap saves you money.
What makes it cost less than $450:
- It’s a simple drop-in swap where old and new sink are same dimensions. Direct replacement with no drain reconfiguration: ~$300-$375.
Shutoff Valve Replacement (Single Fixture)
Ironclad price: $175 | Austin range: $100–$275
The shutoff valve under a sink or behind a toilet is stuck, leaking, or won’t fully close. Tech replaces it with a new quarter-turn ball valve. 20-40 minutes.
Where your $175 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $175.00
Credit card processing: - $5.25
Net to company: $169.75
Materials (ball valve +
compression fitting): - $15 (9%)
Technician labor (30 min): - $28 (16%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $55 (32%)
Overhead: - $40 (24%)
Company profit: $31.75 (18%)
Small job. Thin margin. But important: a shutoff valve that doesn’t work is useless in an emergency. If you turn the valve under your sink and water still flows, that valve needs replacing. Do it proactively, not when water is spraying.
What makes it cost more than $175:
- The valve is soldered (not compression) and the plumber needs to sweat a new one on. Adds 15-30 minutes and requires a torch. ~$225-$275.
- The valve is in a hard-to-access location. Behind a pedestal sink, deep in a cabinet, or behind a built-in. Tight access = more time.
- You’re replacing multiple valves on the same visit. Per-valve cost drops. Doing all shutoffs in a bathroom (toilet + two sink valves) should be ~$375-$450 total, not $175 x 3.
Pro tip: When a plumber is at your house for any reason, ask them to test the shutoff valves at the fixtures they’re working on. If any won’t turn, bundle the replacement into the current visit. It’s cheaper than a separate trip and you avoid discovering a non-functional shutoff during an actual emergency.
Recirculation Pump Installation
Ironclad price: $650 | Austin range: $400–$900
A small pump installed at the water heater (or at the farthest fixture) that circulates hot water through the pipes so you don’t wait 30-60 seconds for hot water at distant faucets. Eliminates the cold-water waste and the wait.
Where your $650 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $650.00
Credit card processing: - $19.50
Net to company: $630.50
Materials (pump, check valve,
timer/sensor, fittings): - $200 (31%)
Technician labor (1.5 hrs): - $70 (11%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (9%)
Overhead: - $150 (23%)
Company profit: $150.50 (23%)
What makes it cost more than $650:
- Dedicated return line needed. Some systems use the cold water line as a return path (simpler, cheaper). A dedicated return line requires running new pipe, which adds materials and significant labor. ~$1,000-$1,500+ for a dedicated return.
- Electrical outlet needed at the water heater. If there’s no outlet nearby, you need an electrician. That’s a separate trade and cost ($150-$300).
What makes it cost less than $650:
- Under-sink demand pump instead of heater-mounted. Simpler to install, no electrical at heater. ~$400-$550. Slightly less effective but much easier to install.
Is it worth it? Depends on how far your farthest fixture is from the water heater and how much the wait bothers you. In a large Austin home where the master bath is 60 feet of pipe from the garage water heater, you might wait 45-90 seconds for hot water. A recirc pump eliminates that. In a small home where the heater is 15 feet from the shower, the wait is 10-15 seconds and the pump isn’t worth the cost.
Washing Machine Valve Box Replacement
Ironclad price: $275 | Austin range: $175–$400
The valve box behind your washing machine has two shutoff valves (hot and cold) and a drain connection. When the valves leak, seize, or won’t shut off, the box gets replaced. This is one of the most important preventive replacements in a home because a burst washing machine hose is one of the most common causes of catastrophic residential water damage.
Where your $275 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $275.00
Credit card processing: - $8.25
Net to company: $266.75
Materials (valve box, supply
valves, misc): - $45 (16%)
Technician labor (45 min): - $38 (14%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (22%)
Overhead: - $65 (24%)
Company profit: $58.75 (21%)
What makes it cost more than $275:
- The supply pipes behind the wall need reworking. If the pipe stubs are corroded or the wrong size for the new box, the plumber needs to modify the plumbing inside the wall. Adds ~$75-$150.
- The drain standpipe is clogged or improperly sized. Addressing the drain adds time and possibly a camera inspection.
What makes it cost less than $275:
- Just the valves, not the whole box. If the box itself is fine and only one valve is stuck, replacing just the valve is ~$175.
While the plumber is there: Ask them to look at your washing machine supply hoses. If they’re rubber (black or gray) and more than 5 years old, replace them with braided stainless steel hoses ($15-$25 at any hardware store, or the plumber can do it for ~$50 labor). Rubber hoses burst. Stainless braided ones rarely do. This $25-$50 investment prevents the kind of water damage claim that costs $10,000-$50,000 in flooring, drywall, and mold remediation.
Detailed Breakdowns
Pipe Leak Repair (Accessible / Visible)
Ironclad price: $275 | Austin range: $150–$450
A pipe in your wall, ceiling, under a sink, in the garage, or in the crawlspace is leaking. The leak is visible or locatable without electronic detection. The plumber cuts out the bad section, patches or replaces it, and tests. This is the most common emergency-adjacent call in residential plumbing.
Where your $275 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $275.00
Credit card processing: - $8.25
Net to company: $266.75
Materials (pipe section,
fittings, solder or crimp
rings, flux): - $20 (7%)
Technician labor (45-60 min): - $45 (17%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (22%)
Overhead: - $70 (26%)
Company profit: $71.75 (27%)
Parts are almost nothing on this job. A 2-foot section of copper pipe is $5. PEX fittings are $3-$8. You are paying for someone who can find the exact failure point, cut cleanly, join properly, and pressure-test so it doesn’t leak again next week.
What makes it cost more than $275:
- The pipe is behind drywall or in the ceiling. The plumber has to cut an access hole, make the repair, then you need drywall patching afterward (separate cost, $100-$300 depending on size and whether you DIY or hire it out). The plumbing itself might be $350-$450. The drywall is on top of that.
- It’s a slab pipe (under your concrete foundation). That’s not this job. That’s a slab leak repair: $2,000+ for spot repair or $3,500+ for a reroute. Completely different scope.
- Multiple leak points. If one section of pipe is leaking, adjacent sections of the same pipe run might be corroding too. The plumber may recommend replacing a longer section. Each additional foot of pipe is cheap in materials but adds labor.
- After-hours emergency. A burst pipe at midnight is this job + the emergency dispatch premium ($150-$250).
What makes it cost less than $275:
- It’s a simple compression fitting that came loose. Tightening or replacing a single fitting is 15 minutes: ~$125-$175.
- It’s a supply line under a sink. Replacing a braided supply line is a $15 part and 10 minutes of work: ~$100-$150.
Before you call: If the leak is from a supply line under a sink or behind a toilet, turn off the shutoff valve at that fixture. If the shutoff valve doesn’t work (common), turn off the main water shutoff. Contain the water with towels or a bucket. Then call. You just bought yourself time and prevented further damage.
Bathtub / Shower Trim and Spout Replacement
Ironclad price: $350 | Austin range: $225–$500
The shower handle, trim plate (escutcheon), and/or tub spout are outdated, corroded, or broken. This is the visible hardware, not the valve behind the wall (that’s a shower valve replacement at $400). Think of trim as the stuff you can see and touch. The valve is the stuff behind the wall that the trim connects to.
Where your $350 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $350.00
Credit card processing: - $10.50
Net to company: $339.50
Materials (trim kit + tub
spout + handle + escutcheon): - $85 (24%)
Technician labor (1 hr): - $48 (14%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (17%)
Overhead: - $80 (23%)
Company profit: $66.50 (19%)
What makes it cost more than $350:
- The valve behind the wall also needs replacing. If the tech pulls the trim and finds the valve body is corroded or incompatible with modern trim, now you need valve + trim. That’s $600-$800 total (valve replacement + new trim), not $350.
- You want a premium trim kit. Basic Moen or Delta trim is $50-$80. A higher-end finish (brushed gold, matte black, oil-rubbed bronze) or a rain shower head upgrade runs $150-$400 for the trim kit alone.
- The tub spout is threaded into the pipe and won’t come off. Corroded tub spout removal can add 30 minutes of careful work to avoid breaking the pipe in the wall.
What makes it cost less than $350:
- Just the tub spout, nothing else. A spout-only swap is 15-20 minutes: ~$150-$200.
- Just the handle/escutcheon. If the valve and spout are fine, handle + trim plate replacement is ~$175-$250.
Trim vs valve: how to tell which you need. If the handle is ugly or broken but the water turns on/off fine and the temperature mixes correctly, you probably need trim only. If the water won’t fully shut off, temperature is inconsistent, or the handle is seized, the valve behind the wall likely needs replacing too. A plumber can tell in about 2 minutes once they pull the handle off.
Water Heater Flush and Inspection
Ironclad price: $150 | Austin range: $80–$250
The tech drains sediment from the bottom of the tank, inspects the anode rod, checks the T&P relief valve, checks gas connections or electrical elements, and inspects for leaks or corrosion. Preventive maintenance. Takes 30-45 minutes.
Where your $150 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $150.00
Credit card processing: - $4.50
Net to company: $145.50
Materials (minimal, maybe a
new hose washer): - $3 (2%)
Technician labor (35 min): - $30 (20%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $52 (35%)
Overhead: - $35 (23%)
Company profit: $25.50 (17%)
Thin-margin job. The plumber isn’t making much here. The value to you is extending the life of a $2,200 asset by 2-5 years.
What makes it cost more than $150:
- The anode rod needs replacing. The anode rod is a sacrificial metal rod that corrodes instead of your tank. When it’s mostly dissolved, it should be replaced ($20-$40 part). With labor, a flush + anode rod replacement is ~$225-$300. This is legitimate and one of the best investments in water heater longevity.
- The T&P relief valve is stuck or dripping. Replacing it adds ~$75-$100 to the visit.
How often should you do this? In Austin, with our hard water, once a year is ideal. Every two years is acceptable. Never is how you end up with a tank full of sediment that overworks the burner, shortens the tank’s life by 3-5 years, and makes weird noises. If your water heater is rumbling or popping, heavy sediment buildup is almost certainly the cause.
Can you do this yourself? The flush itself is mechanically simple: connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom, run the hose outside, open the valve, let it drain until the water runs clear. YouTube covers it. What most homeowners skip is checking the anode rod (requires a 1 1/16" socket and some force) and inspecting the gas connections and relief valve (which a pro should eyeball at least every few years). If you’re comfortable with the flush, DIY it. Have a pro do the full inspection every 2-3 years.
Reverse Osmosis System (Under-Sink)
Ironclad price: $550 | Austin range: $350–$800
A multi-stage filtration system installed under the kitchen sink with a dedicated faucet (or connected to an existing faucet). Produces highly filtered drinking water at one point of use. Does not treat the whole house (that’s a water softener or whole-house filter).
Where your $550 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $550.00
Credit card processing: - $16.50
Net to company: $533.50
Materials (RO system, faucet,
storage tank, drain saddle,
tubing, fittings): - $200 (36%)
Technician labor (1.5 hrs): - $70 (13%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (11%)
Overhead: - $100 (18%)
Company profit: $103.50 (19%)
What makes it cost more than $550:
- Premium system with more filtration stages. A basic 3-stage RO is $100-$150 wholesale. A 5-stage or 7-stage system with remineralization, UV, or alkaline filters is $250-$500. Better filtration, longer filter life, better-tasting water.
- No existing hole in the sink or countertop for the dedicated faucet. Drilling through granite or quartz countertops requires a diamond bit and care. Adds ~$75-$150. Stainless steel sinks are easier.
- Connecting to refrigerator ice maker or water dispenser. Running a line from the RO system to the fridge adds tubing and a connection point. ~$75-$125 more.
What makes it cost less than $550:
- You buy the system yourself and have the plumber install. The RO unit itself is available at Home Depot, Costco, or Amazon for $150-$400. Labor-only install is ~$250-$350. But the plumber won’t warranty the system, only the connections.
RO vs whole-house softener vs whole-house carbon filter:
| System | What It Does | What It Doesn’t Do | Cost Installed |
|---|---|---|---|
| RO (under-sink) | Removes almost everything from drinking water at one faucet | Does not treat showers, laundry, or other fixtures | $350-$800 |
| Whole-house softener | Removes hardness minerals from all water | Does not remove chlorine, chemicals, or contaminants | $1,500-$4,000 |
| Whole-house carbon filter | Removes chlorine, sediment, some chemicals from all water | Does not soften water (no hardness removal) | $1,000-$3,000 |
| Combo (softener + carbon) | Softens and filters all water | Still doesn’t produce RO-quality drinking water | $2,500-$6,000 |
Most Austin homes benefit from a softener (to protect fixtures and water heater from hard water) plus an RO at the kitchen sink (for drinking water). That combo runs $2,000-$4,800 total installed and addresses both the hard water damage problem and the drinking water quality question.
Sump Pump Installation
Ironclad price: $800 | Austin range: $500–$1,400
A pump installed in a pit (sump basin) at the lowest point of a basement, crawlspace, or problem drainage area. When water rises in the pit, the pump activates and pumps it outside. Common in homes with crawlspaces, basements (rare in Austin but they exist), or areas with drainage problems.
Where your $800 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $800.00
Credit card processing: - $24.00
Net to company: $776.00
Materials (sump pump, basin,
check valve, PVC discharge
pipe, fittings): - $225 (28%)
Technician labor (2-3 hrs): - $140 (18%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $75 (9%)
Overhead: - $150 (19%)
Company profit: $186 (23%)
What makes it cost more than $800:
- No existing sump pit. If the plumber needs to jackhammer a hole in a concrete floor to create the pit, that adds significant labor and concrete disposal: ~$500-$800 more.
- Long discharge run. The discharge pipe needs to route water away from the foundation. A 50-foot run with trenching is more than a 10-foot run out a nearby wall.
- Battery backup system. A battery backup sump pump activates during power outages (which is exactly when heavy rain usually knocks out power). Adds $300-$500 for the backup unit and battery.
What makes it cost less than $800:
- Existing pit, just replacing the pump. A straight pump swap in an existing sump basin is 30-45 minutes: ~$400-$550.
Austin context: Sump pumps are less common in Austin than in northern/midwestern cities because most Austin homes are slab-on-grade with no basement. But homes with crawlspaces, homes in flood-prone areas (near creeks, in low-lying neighborhoods), and homes with persistent standing water under the foundation do benefit from sump pumps. If you’ve never had water intrusion, you probably don’t need one. If your crawlspace is wet every time it rains hard, you probably do.
Backflow Preventer Testing / Replacement
Ironclad price: $175 test / $450 replacement | Austin range: $75–$250 test / $300–$700 replacement
A backflow preventer keeps contaminated water from flowing backward into the clean water supply. Austin Water requires annual testing on certain backflow devices (typically irrigation systems and some commercial connections). The test takes 15-20 minutes with a specialized gauge. If the device fails the test, it needs repair or replacement.
Where your $175 test goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $175.00
Credit card processing: - $5.25
Net to company: $169.75
Materials (test gauge wear,
report form): - $5 (3%)
Technician labor (20 min): - $20 (12%)
Certification / reporting: - $15 (9%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $55 (32%)
Overhead: - $40 (24%)
Company profit: $34.75 (20%)
Where your $450 replacement goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $450.00
Credit card processing: - $13.50
Net to company: $436.50
Materials (backflow device,
fittings, test kit): - $120 (27%)
Technician labor (1 hr): - $48 (11%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (13%)
Overhead: - $100 (22%)
Company profit: $108.50 (24%)
What makes it cost more than standard:
- Larger device (1" or bigger). Commercial or large irrigation systems use bigger backflow preventers. Bigger device = more expensive part + more labor.
- The device is buried or in a vault. Accessing underground installations adds time.
- Repair vs replace. Sometimes a failed test is a $30 rubber kit replacement (15 min labor, ~$100-$150 total). Sometimes the entire device is corroded and needs full replacement ($450+). The tech should show you the test results and explain which fix is needed.
Do you need this? If you have an irrigation system (sprinklers) connected to your home’s water supply, Austin Water probably requires an annual backflow test. You’ll get a notice. If you ignore it, the city can shut off your water. The test itself is quick and cheap. Just schedule it when the notice arrives.
Sewer Cleanout Installation
Ironclad price: $750 | Austin range: $400–$1,200
A cleanout is an access point (a capped pipe fitting) that allows a plumber to insert equipment into your sewer line without going through a fixture inside the house. Older Austin homes often don’t have one, or the existing one is buried and unfindable. Installing one means the plumber excavates to the sewer line, taps in a wye fitting, and brings a capped pipe to the surface.
Where your $750 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $750.00
Credit card processing: - $22.50
Net to company: $727.50
Materials (wye fitting, pipe,
cleanout cap, concrete/
landscape patch): - $60 (8%)
Technician labor (2-3 hrs,
includes digging): - $150 (20%)
Truck / equipment: - $100 (13%)
Overhead: - $175 (23%)
Company profit: $242.50 (32%)
What makes it cost more than $750:
- Deep sewer line. In some Austin neighborhoods, the sewer line is 4-6 feet deep. More digging = more labor and possibly shoring requirements. Can push to $1,000-$1,200.
- Line runs under hardscape. If the best cleanout location is under a patio, walkway, or driveway, the plumber either moves the location (less ideal for access) or cuts through the hardscape (adds restoration cost).
- Two cleanouts needed. Some situations benefit from both a front-yard and a back-of-house cleanout. Double the work, roughly 1.5x the cost (not quite double because of shared setup time).
Why you want one: Without a cleanout, every time you need a sewer line cleared or inspected, the plumber has to go through a fixture inside your house (usually pulling a toilet). That adds $75-$100 to every future drain call and makes a mess in your bathroom. A cleanout pays for itself after 3-4 sewer service calls. If you’re in an older Austin home and get your sewer line serviced more than once every few years, ask your plumber about installing a cleanout.
Bathroom Remodel Plumbing Rough-In
Ironclad price: $3,500 | Austin range: $2,000–$6,000
Moving or adding plumbing supply lines, drain lines, and vent lines for a bathroom remodel. This is the behind-the-walls work that happens before tile, fixtures, and finishes go in. Typical scope: relocate shower/tub drain and supply, relocate toilet flange, relocate or add sink drain and supply, ensure proper venting to code.
Where your $3,500 goes at Ironclad (standard single-bath remodel, not relocating to a new room):
You pay: $3,500.00
Credit card processing: - $105.00
Net to company: $3,395.00
Materials (PEX supply, PVC/ABS
drain, fittings, hangers,
blocking, misc): - $350 (10%)
Technician labor (2 days): - $650 (19%)
Permit: - $125 (4%)
Truck / equipment: - $150 (4%)
Overhead: - $800 (23%)
Company profit: $1,320 (38%)
Higher margin on remodel work because the plumber is coordinating with your general contractor’s schedule, making multiple trips (rough-in, then final connections after tile/finish), and taking on the risk that the rough-in has to be perfect behind the wall before it gets covered up.
What makes it cost more than $3,500:
- Adding a bathroom where none existed. Running new drain, supply, and vent from scratch to a new location (basement, addition, converted closet) is significantly more work than reconfiguring an existing bathroom. $5,000-$8,000+ depending on distance from existing lines and whether the new space is on slab (requires cutting concrete for drain) or framed floor.
- Slab floor. Moving a toilet or shower drain on a slab means cutting concrete, repositioning the drain line, and patching. Adds $500-$1,500 over the base cost.
- Complex fixture layout. A walk-in shower with multiple shower heads, body sprays, and a linear drain requires significantly more supply and drain work than a standard tub/shower combo.
- Venting challenges. Proper drain venting is code-required and sometimes difficult to route in existing construction. If the vent path is blocked by a beam or needs to cross multiple floor joists, the labor increases.
What makes it cost less than $3,500:
- Fixtures stay in the same locations. If you’re updating a bathroom but the toilet, shower, and sink are staying in the same spots, the rough-in work is minimal: just connecting new fixtures to existing pipe. ~$800-$1,500 for connection work only.
- Second-floor bathroom with open basement/crawlspace below. Access from below makes drain work much easier than slab work.
Important: plumbing rough-in is one piece of a bathroom remodel. The plumber handles pipe. You also need a GC or separate trades for demo, framing, electrical, waterproofing, tile, drywall, paint, and fixture installation. Total bathroom remodel in Austin for a standard hall bath: $15,000-$35,000 depending on finishes. The plumbing rough-in is typically 10-25% of the total remodel cost.
Kitchen Remodel Plumbing Rough-In
Ironclad price: $2,500 | Austin range: $1,500–$4,500
Moving or adding plumbing for a kitchen remodel: relocating sink drain and supply, adding or moving dishwasher connection, adding or moving disposal, gas line relocation (if gas range moves), adding pot filler or prep sink. Kitchen rough-ins are generally simpler than bathroom rough-ins because there’s typically one drain location (the sink) rather than three (toilet, shower, sink).
Where your $2,500 goes at Ironclad (standard kitchen remodel, sink relocates 3-6 feet):
You pay: $2,500.00
Credit card processing: - $75.00
Net to company: $2,425.00
Materials (PEX supply, drain
pipe, gas line if applicable,
fittings, valves): - $225 (9%)
Technician labor (1.5 days): - $500 (20%)
Permit (if gas work): - $100 (4%)
Truck / equipment: - $125 (5%)
Overhead: - $575 (23%)
Company profit: $900 (36%)
What makes it cost more than $2,500:
- Island sink. Running drain and supply to a kitchen island requires under-slab work (if slab-on-grade) or long horizontal runs under the floor. Venting an island sink is notoriously tricky because you can’t run a traditional vent up through the island into the attic. An air admittance valve (AAV) or loop vent is typically used. Adds $500-$1,500.
- Gas line relocation. If the gas range is moving to a new wall or an island, the gas line has to follow. Gas line work requires a permit and adds $300-$800.
- Adding a pot filler. A wall-mounted faucet above the range requires a new cold water supply line run through the wall, typically from the nearest supply. $400-$700 installed.
What makes it cost less than $2,500:
- Sink stays in the same spot. Just disconnecting and reconnecting to existing pipe. ~$500-$800 for disconnect/reconnect plus new supply lines.
- No gas work. Electric range or gas range isn’t moving. Eliminates the gas component entirely.
Slab Leak Reroute (Through Attic/Walls)
Ironclad price: $3,500 | Austin range: $2,000–$5,500
A slab leak has been confirmed. Instead of jackhammering through the foundation to repair the specific pipe under the slab (spot repair), the plumber abandons the damaged under-slab pipe and runs a new line through the attic, walls, or both to bypass it entirely. The old pipe is capped off and left in the ground.
Where your $3,500 goes at Ironclad (single line reroute, hot or cold supply):
You pay: $3,500.00
Credit card processing: - $105.00
Net to company: $3,395.00
Materials (PEX or copper pipe,
fittings, hangers, insulation,
drywall patch materials): - $250 (7%)
Technician labor (1-1.5 days): - $500 (14%)
Permit: - $100 (3%)
Truck / equipment: - $125 (4%)
Overhead: - $750 (21%)
Company profit: $1,670 (48%)
This is one of the highest-margin jobs in residential plumbing. The materials are cheap. The labor is moderate. The expertise to plan and execute a reroute correctly — routing through an attic in Austin summer heat, maintaining proper slope, insulating against freeze risk, tapping into existing lines at the right points — is what you’re paying for.
What makes it cost more than $3,500:
- Multiple lines need rerouting. If both hot and cold supply lines under the slab are failing, each reroute is a separate run. Two reroutes: ~$5,500-$7,000.
- Two-story home. Running through the attic of a two-story home and dropping down through walls to first-floor fixtures is more complex. Adds $500-$1,500.
- Long runs. A home where the water heater is in the garage and the affected fixture is in a master bath on the opposite side of the house requires a long pipe run through the attic. Material and labor scale with distance.
Reroute vs spot repair vs full repipe — how to decide:
| Scenario | Best Option | Typical Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Single leak, isolated failure, rest of pipe is healthy | Spot repair (through slab) | $1,500–$2,500 |
| Single leak, but pipe material is known to fail systemically (polybutylene, deteriorating copper) | Reroute the affected line now, plan for full repipe | $3,500 now + repipe later |
| Single leak in a hard-to-access location under slab | Reroute (avoids cutting slab) | $3,000–$4,500 |
| Multiple leaks in different locations, systemic pipe failure | Full repipe (abandon all under-slab lines) | $8,500–$15,000 |
| Drain line leak under slab (not supply) | Spot repair or reroute depending on severity | $2,000–$5,000 |
The important question to ask: “Why are you recommending [this option] instead of [cheaper option]?” A good plumber will explain: “The pipe is copper and the corrosion pattern suggests more leaks are coming in the next 1-2 years, so a reroute now prevents a second slab cut later.” A bad plumber will say: “This is what we recommend” without connecting the recommendation to your specific pipe condition.
Detailed Breakdowns
Bathtub Drain and Overflow Repair
Ironclad price: $275 | Austin range: $175–$425
Your bathtub drains slowly even after clearing hair from the stopper. Or the overflow plate is loose, rusted, or the trip lever mechanism that controls the stopper is broken. The plumber replaces the drain assembly, overflow assembly, or both. This is the hardware inside the tub drain, not a clog in the pipe downstream (that’s drain cleaning at $175).
Where your $275 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $275.00
Credit card processing: - $8.25
Net to company: $266.75
Materials (drain shoe, overflow
tube, trip lever assembly,
plumber's putty, silicone): - $40 (15%)
Technician labor (1 hr): - $48 (18%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (22%)
Overhead: - $65 (24%)
Company profit: $53.75 (20%)
What makes it cost more than $275:
- The drain shoe is corroded into the tub. Removing a seized drain fitting from an older tub without cracking the tub requires patience and sometimes a specialty extractor tool. Adds 30-60 minutes of labor. ~$350-$425.
- Access from below is required. If the overflow and drain connections are behind a finished ceiling on the floor below, the plumber may need to cut an access hole. The plumbing is ~$325-$375. Drywall repair is separate ($100-$250).
- Replacing drain assembly AND doing a drain clearing. If the slow drain is caused by both a deteriorated drain assembly and a downstream clog, you’re combining two jobs. Should be ~$375-$425 bundled, not $275 + $175 separately.
What makes it cost less than $275:
- Just the stopper or trip lever mechanism. If the drain shoe and overflow are fine but the stopper mechanism is broken, parts are $15-$30 and labor is 20-30 minutes: ~$150-$200.
The hair clog vs drain assembly problem: If your tub drains slowly, try removing the stopper and pulling out the hair clog yourself first (tweezers or a $3 plastic drain snake from any hardware store). If that fixes it, you just saved $275. If the tub still drains slowly after clearing the visible clog, the problem is either the drain assembly (corroded, restricted) or a downstream blockage. That’s when you call.
Refrigerator Water Line Installation
Ironclad price: $225 | Austin range: $125–$350
Running a water supply line from the nearest cold water pipe to the back of your refrigerator for the ice maker and water dispenser. The plumber taps into an existing cold water line (usually under the kitchen sink or in the basement/crawlspace below), runs flexible tubing or copper line to the fridge location, installs a shutoff valve, and connects to the fridge.
Where your $225 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $225.00
Credit card processing: - $6.75
Net to company: $218.25
Materials (saddle valve or
tee + shutoff, copper or
braided line, fittings): - $25 (11%)
Technician labor (45 min): - $38 (17%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (27%)
Overhead: - $55 (24%)
Company profit: $40.25 (18%)
What makes it cost more than $225:
- Long run with no nearby water source. If the closest cold water pipe is 20+ feet away and the line needs to go through cabinets, walls, or a crawlspace, materials and labor increase. ~$300-$400.
- No existing hole through the floor or wall. Drilling through the floor behind the fridge to reach a crawlspace or basement adds time. ~$275-$325.
- You want a proper dedicated shutoff valve (recommended) instead of a saddle valve. Saddle valves are the cheap, self-piercing type that come in fridge install kits. They’re prone to clogging and leaking over time. A proper tee with a quarter-turn ball valve is more reliable. Adds ~$25-$50 in materials and 15 minutes of labor but worth it.
What makes it cost less than $225:
- Cold water supply is directly behind or beside the fridge. Short run, easy access. 20 minutes of work: ~$125-$175.
Can you do this yourself? This is one of the more DIY-friendly plumbing jobs. Fridge water line kits cost $15-$25 at Home Depot and include everything. The risk: saddle valves (included in most kits) can leak or clog over years. If you DIY, consider upgrading to a proper tee and shutoff valve. If you’re not comfortable drilling into a water pipe, call a pro. A slow leak behind a fridge can go unnoticed for months and cause serious floor damage.
Outdoor Gas Line Run (Long)
Ironclad price: $1,200 | Austin range: $700–$2,500
Running a new gas line from your existing gas system to an outdoor location: built-in grill, fire pit, outdoor kitchen, pool heater, hot tub, generator. This is a longer run than a simple same-room appliance hookup ($400). Typical distance: 20-80 feet.
Where your $1,200 goes at Ironclad (40-foot run, standard conditions):
You pay: $1,200.00
Credit card processing: - $36.00
Net to company: $1,164.00
Materials (black iron or CSST
flex gas pipe, fittings,
shutoff valve, drip leg,
test gauge): - $200 (17%)
Technician labor (4-5 hrs): - $280 (23%)
Permit: - $100 (8%)
Trenching / boring (if
underground): - $100 (8%)
Truck / drive: - $80 (7%)
Overhead: - $200 (17%)
Company profit: $204 (17%)
Margin is thinner on gas work because the permit, inspection, and safety testing eat into the job. Gas work that fails inspection means the plumber comes back on their own dime to fix it. They price in that risk.
What makes it cost more than $1,200:
- Longer run. Price scales roughly linearly with distance. An 80-foot run is approximately double a 40-foot run in materials and labor: ~$2,000-$2,500.
- The main gas line (from meter) needs upsizing. If you’re adding a high-BTU appliance (pool heater, generator) and your existing gas line from the meter is too small to support the additional demand, the plumber needs to upsize the supply line. This can add $500-$1,500 depending on the length of the line from the meter to your house.
- Running through or under hardscape. Under a driveway, patio, or pool deck requires boring, not trenching. Boring costs more: ~$300-$800 depending on distance and surface.
- Multiple appliance connections. Running gas to a grill AND a fire pit AND a pool heater means multiple branches off the main line. Each additional connection adds $200-$400.
What makes it cost less than $1,200:
- Short run, 10-15 feet. A grill hookup where the gas stub is on the same exterior wall: ~$400-$700. This is closer to a standard gas line connection than a full outdoor run.
Non-negotiable: Gas line work requires a licensed plumber and a permit in Austin and surrounding areas. The line must be pressure-tested and inspected before it can be used. If someone offers to run a gas line without mentioning permits or testing, do not hire them. A gas leak from improperly installed pipe is a fire and explosion risk.
CSST vs black iron: CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) is a flexible gas pipe that’s faster to install and easier to route than rigid black iron pipe. It’s code-compliant and widely used. It requires proper bonding (grounding) to protect against lightning-induced punctures. If your plumber uses CSST, ask them to confirm the bonding is installed per manufacturer specs.
Whole-House Carbon Filtration System
Ironclad price: $1,800 | Austin range: $1,000–$3,000
A filtration system installed on the main water line that removes chlorine, sediment, some chemicals, and some taste/odor issues from all water entering your home. This is NOT a water softener (which removes hardness minerals). It’s a filter. Your water still tastes like Austin tap water hardness-wise, but the chlorine and sediment are gone.
Where your $1,800 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $1,800.00
Credit card processing: - $54.00
Net to company: $1,746.00
Materials (filter housing,
media, bypass valve, fittings,
pre-filter): - $500 (28%)
Technician labor (2 hrs): - $100 (6%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $75 (4%)
Overhead: - $350 (19%)
Company profit: $721 (40%)
Higher margin on water treatment because the equipment has a significant wholesale-to-installed markup and the installation labor is relatively quick compared to the job cost.
What makes it cost more than $1,800:
- Combo system (carbon filter + softener). If you want both filtration and softening, you’re looking at two units plumbed in series. ~$3,500-$5,000 total for a combined system. This is what most Austin homes actually need if you want to address both chlorine AND hard water.
- Premium media or specialty filtration. Filters designed for specific contaminants (iron, manganese, sulfur, PFAS) use specialty media that costs more. ~$2,200-$3,000.
- Difficult installation location. If the main line entry point is in a tight closet with no room for the filter housing, the plumber may need to relocate the install point or reconfigure plumbing. Adds labor.
What makes it cost less than $1,800:
- Basic sediment filter only (not full carbon filtration). A sediment filter is simpler and cheaper: ~$400-$800 installed. It catches particles but doesn’t remove chlorine or chemicals.
Do you need this? Austin’s municipal water meets federal safety standards. It’s not dangerous. But it does have noticeable chlorine taste and occasionally elevated sediment, especially after heavy rains or when the city switches water sources (which happens). If you don’t like the taste of your tap water and you’re tired of buying bottled water, a carbon filter or an under-sink RO system ($550) solves it. The whole-house system also protects appliances and fixtures from sediment.
Carbon filter vs softener: different problems.
| Problem | Solution | Not Solved By |
|---|---|---|
| White crusty buildup on fixtures | Water softener | Carbon filter |
| Water tastes like chlorine/pool | Carbon filter | Water softener |
| Water heater dying early | Water softener | Carbon filter |
| Spots on dishes | Water softener | Carbon filter |
| Sediment or particles in water | Carbon filter (or sediment pre-filter) | Water softener |
| Dry skin / hair | Water softener | Carbon filter |
Most Austin homes dealing with both hard water AND taste issues benefit from the combo. If you only have one problem, buy the one system that fixes it.
Toilet Flange Repair or Replacement
Ironclad price: $275 | Austin range: $175–$400
The flange is the ring in the floor that your toilet bolts to. It connects the toilet to the drain pipe. When it cracks, corrodes, or breaks, the toilet rocks, leaks at the base, or doesn’t seal properly. The plumber pulls the toilet, removes or repairs the old flange, installs a new one, resets the toilet with a new wax ring, and tests.
Where your $275 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $275.00
Credit card processing: - $8.25
Net to company: $266.75
Materials (flange, flange
repair ring or full flange,
wax ring, closet bolts): - $25 (9%)
Technician labor (1 hr): - $48 (18%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (22%)
Overhead: - $70 (26%)
Company profit: $63.75 (24%)
What makes it cost more than $275:
- The flange is cast iron and rusted below floor level. Cutting out the old cast iron flange and fitting a new one into an older drain line is more complex than swapping a PVC flange. Adds 30-60 minutes: ~$350-$425.
- The subfloor around the flange is water-damaged and soft. If the toilet has been leaking at the base for a while, the plywood or OSB subfloor may be rotted. The plumber can’t set a new flange on rotted wood. Subfloor repair is carpentry, not plumbing, and may require a separate trade. But the plumber should tell you if the floor is soft.
- On a slab floor, the flange is recessed below the finished floor. The flange needs to sit on top of (or flush with) the finished floor to seal properly. If your floor was tiled or built up and the flange is now recessed, the plumber uses a flange extension or stacked wax ring. Adds ~$25-$50 in materials.
What makes it cost less than $275:
- Flange repair ring instead of full replacement. If the flange is cracked but the drain connection is solid, a stainless steel repair ring bolts over the existing flange for a fraction of the labor: ~$175-$225.
How this usually gets discovered: You called about a toilet that rocks or leaks at the base. The plumber pulls the toilet expecting a simple wax ring replacement ($225). They find a broken flange underneath. Now the scope changed. A good plumber shows you the broken flange, explains what’s needed, and gives you a revised price before proceeding. A bad plumber just does the extra work and adds it to the bill without asking.
Bidet Seat Installation (Electric)
Ironclad price: $250 | Austin range: $150–$400
An electric bidet seat replaces your existing toilet seat. It needs a water supply connection (tee off the existing toilet supply) and an electrical outlet within reach. The plumber handles the water connection. If there’s no outlet nearby, you need an electrician first.
Where your $250 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $250.00
Credit card processing: - $7.50
Net to company: $242.50
Materials (tee adapter, braided
supply line, misc fittings): - $15 (6%)
Technician labor (30-45 min): - $35 (14%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (24%)
Overhead: - $65 (26%)
Company profit: $67.50 (27%)
This assumes you already bought the bidet seat. The plumber isn’t selling you the unit. You buy it online (TOTO Washlet, Bio Bidet, Brondell — $250-$700 for the seat itself) and the plumber installs the water connection. The seat itself just replaces your existing toilet seat and plugs into the outlet.
What makes it cost more than $250:
- No electrical outlet near the toilet. This is the most common complication. An electrician needs to install a GFCI outlet behind or beside the toilet. Electrical cost: $150-$300 depending on how far the nearest circuit is. This is a separate trade and a separate cost from the plumbing.
- Non-standard toilet supply connection. Older shutoff valves or non-standard supply lines may need replacing to accommodate the tee adapter. Adds ~$75.
What makes it cost less than $250:
- Outlet already exists and the toilet supply is standard. The tee adapter install is 15-20 minutes and the bidet seat itself is plug-and-play: ~$150-$175.
Can you do this yourself? Honestly, yes. The water connection is a tee adapter that goes between the shutoff valve and the toilet supply line. Turn off the valve, unscrew the supply line, screw on the tee, reconnect the supply, connect the bidet hose, turn the valve back on, check for leaks. The bidet seat bolts onto the toilet bowl with the included hardware. YouTube covers this well. The only reason to call a plumber is if your shutoff valve doesn’t work, or you’re uncomfortable working with water connections. If you DIY it and it leaks, call us.
Gas Appliance Connection (Range or Dryer)
Ironclad price: $275 | Austin range: $175–$450
You bought a new gas range or gas dryer and need it connected to the existing gas stub in the wall. The plumber connects the flex gas connector, checks for leaks with a gas sniffer or soap test, and confirms the appliance fires correctly.
Where your $275 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $275.00
Credit card processing: - $8.25
Net to company: $266.75
Materials (flex gas connector,
shutoff valve if needed,
thread sealant, fittings): - $30 (11%)
Technician labor (30-45 min): - $35 (13%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $60 (22%)
Overhead: - $70 (26%)
Company profit: $71.75 (27%)
What makes it cost more than $275:
- No existing gas stub. If the previous appliance was electric and there’s no gas line in the wall, this becomes a new gas line run ($400 for short/same room, $1,200+ for longer runs). Completely different job.
- The existing gas shutoff valve is old and needs replacing. Adds ~$75-$125. Worth doing since you’ve got access to the connection anyway.
- Gas dryer with no existing vent to exterior. The vent is not plumbing (it’s HVAC/general contractor territory), but some plumbers handle it. Adds ~$100-$250 depending on vent run length.
What makes it cost less than $275:
- You already have a flex connector and just need it hooked up and tested. Connection + leak test only: ~$150-$200.
The delivery company question: When your range or dryer gets delivered, the delivery company often offers to “hook up” the gas appliance for $100-$150. Some delivery drivers are qualified. Many are not. If the connection leaks and nobody catches it, you have a gas leak in your house. A licensed plumber tests every connection with a gas sniffer or soap bubble test. A delivery driver in a hurry may not. For the $75-$125 difference, a licensed plumber with insurance is worth it on gas connections.
Can you do this yourself? Connecting a gas range or dryer is mechanically simple (screw on a flex connector, apply thread sealant, tighten, test). Functionally, you’re working with gas, and a mistake means a gas leak in your home. If you’re comfortable with it, you can DIY. Use a proper gas-rated flex connector (not an old one), apply gas-rated thread sealant (not regular Teflon tape unless it’s yellow/gas-rated), and test every joint with soapy water (bubbles = leak). If you have any doubt, spend the $275. It’s cheap insurance against a gas leak.
Water Pressure Booster Pump
Ironclad price: $900 | Austin range: $600–$1,500
Low water pressure throughout the house that isn’t caused by a PRV (pressure regulating valve) failure, a supply line issue, or a municipal supply problem. A booster pump is installed on the main water line to mechanically increase pressure into the house. Includes the pump, a pressure tank (to prevent short-cycling), electrical connection, and bypass valve.
Where your $900 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $900.00
Credit card processing: - $27.00
Net to company: $873.00
Materials (booster pump,
pressure tank, bypass valve,
check valve, fittings): - $350 (39%)
Technician labor (2 hrs): - $100 (11%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $75 (8%)
Overhead: - $175 (19%)
Company profit: $173 (19%)
What makes it cost more than $900:
- Larger pump for a bigger home. Standard residential boosters handle most single-family homes. Larger homes (3,000+ sq ft, multiple stories, extensive irrigation) may need a higher-capacity pump: ~$1,200-$1,500.
- Electrical work needed. The pump needs a 120V outlet. If there isn’t one near the install point, an electrician needs to add one: $150-$300 separate cost.
What makes it cost less than $900:
- The problem is actually the PRV, not overall supply pressure. A failed PRV that’s restricting pressure is a $400 replacement, not a $900 pump install. The plumber should test incoming pressure at the meter first to determine whether the problem is supply (booster needed) or restriction (PRV or clogged pipe). If they jump to “booster pump” without checking the PRV and meter pressure, ask why.
Before spending $900, rule out these cheaper causes of low pressure:
| Possible Cause | How to Check | Fix | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| PRV is failed/set too low | Plumber tests pressure before and after PRV | Replace PRV | $400 |
| Main shutoff valve is partially closed | Turn it fully open | Free | $0 |
| Clogged aerators on faucets | Unscrew and check | Clean or replace | $0-$5 |
| Municipal supply pressure is low | Ask neighbors if they have the same issue, or call Austin Water | City problem, not yours to fix | $0 |
| Corroded galvanized pipe restricting flow | Plumber inspects pipe type | May need repipe | $8,500 |
A good plumber checks all of these before recommending a booster pump. A bad one sells you a pump without diagnosing the actual cause.
Pipe Insulation (Freeze Protection)
Ironclad price: $400 | Austin range: $200–$700
Insulating exposed water pipes in crawlspaces, attics, garages, and exterior walls to prevent freezing during Austin’s occasional hard freezes. The plumber wraps exposed pipe with foam insulation sleeves, secures joints with tape, and may add heat cable on the most vulnerable runs.
Where your $400 goes at Ironclad (standard home, crawlspace + garage + exterior bibs):
You pay: $400.00
Credit card processing: - $12.00
Net to company: $388.00
Materials (foam insulation
sleeves, tape, zip ties,
heat cable if needed): - $60 (15%)
Technician labor (1.5-2 hrs): - $90 (23%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $65 (17%)
Overhead: - $85 (22%)
Company profit: $88 (23%)
What makes it cost more than $400:
- Large home with extensive crawlspace piping. More linear feet of pipe = more materials and time. A home with 100+ feet of exposed pipe in the crawlspace might run $600-$800.
- Attic pipes that need insulating. Attic work in Austin is brutal in summer (130+ degrees). Some plumbers charge a premium for attic labor, and they should. If you want this done comfortably, schedule it for fall or winter. ~$500-$700.
- Heat cable installation. Self-regulating heat cable wraps around the most vulnerable pipes and prevents freezing electrically. Adds $100-$300 in materials depending on length, plus the pipe needs to be near an electrical outlet.
What makes it cost less than $400:
- Just the outdoor hose bibs. Insulating foam covers for 2-3 hose bibs is a 20-minute job: ~$125-$175. You can also buy $3 foam hose bib covers at any hardware store and do it yourself.
- Just the garage pipes. Limited scope, easy access: ~$200-$300.
Austin freeze reality: Austin averages 1-3 hard freezes per year (below 28F for sustained periods). The 2021 winter storm proved that Austin homes are not built for extended freezing. The pipes most at risk: outdoor hose bibs (especially if hoses are left attached), crawlspace supply lines, attic pipe runs in poorly insulated attics, and pipes on exterior walls with minimal insulation.
The cheapest freeze prevention that most people skip: Disconnect your garden hoses before winter. A hose left connected traps water in the hose bib, which freezes, expands, and cracks the pipe behind the wall. You won’t know it’s cracked until spring when you turn the water on and the wall fills up. Disconnecting the hose takes 30 seconds and costs nothing.
P-Trap Replacement or Dry Trap Repair
Ironclad price: $175 | Austin range: $100–$275
You smell sewer gas coming from a drain — a floor drain, a shower, a sink you don’t use often, or a laundry drain. The P-trap (the curved section of pipe under or near the drain) either has a leak, is cracked, or has dried out. The P-trap holds a small amount of water that creates a seal blocking sewer gas from entering your house. When that water evaporates (from disuse) or the trap is physically damaged, the gas comes through.
Where your $175 goes at Ironclad:
You pay: $175.00
Credit card processing: - $5.25
Net to company: $169.75
Materials (P-trap assembly,
washers, slip nuts): - $12 (7%)
Technician labor (30 min): - $28 (16%)
Truck / drive / dispatch: - $55 (32%)
Overhead: - $40 (24%)
Company profit: $34.75 (20%)
What makes it cost more than $175:
- The P-trap is behind a wall or in the slab. Under-sink traps are accessible. Floor drain traps in a slab are not. If the trap is embedded in concrete and cracked, fixing it may require cutting the slab: ~$500-$1,000+. This is rare but possible in older homes.
- The drain line downstream has a problem. If the P-trap is fine but you still smell sewer gas, the issue may be a broken vent pipe in the attic, a cracked drain line in the wall, or a missing trap elsewhere in the system. Diagnosis gets more complex: ~$275-$400 for investigation.
What makes it cost less than $175:
Probably nothing if you’re calling a plumber. The parts are $10-$15 but the minimum cost of getting a licensed tech to your house is ~$125-$150.
Can you fix this yourself? If the smell is coming from a drain you don’t use often (guest bathroom sink, basement floor drain, laundry standpipe), try this first: pour a cup of water down the drain. That refills the P-trap and recreates the seal. If the smell stops within an hour, the trap was just dry. Run water through unused drains once a month to prevent this. Cost: $0.
If pouring water down the drain doesn’t fix the smell, the trap is physically damaged or the problem is somewhere else in the drain/vent system. That’s when you call.
Sewer gas is not just unpleasant, it’s a health concern. Sewer gas contains methane and hydrogen sulfide. Short exposure causes headaches and nausea. Prolonged exposure in a confined space is dangerous. If you smell sewer gas, address it. Don’t just “get used to it.”
Full Price Guide Now Covers 50 Services
Drains & Sewers (9): drain cleaning, mainline cleaning, hydro jetting, camera inspection, sewer spot repair, trenchless lining, cleanout installation, bathtub drain/overflow repair, P-trap replacement
Toilets, Tubs & Showers (7): toilet internal repair, toilet pull/reseat, toilet replacement, toilet flange repair, shower valve replacement, tub/shower trim replacement, bidet seat installation
Faucets, Sinks & Fixtures (6): faucet repair, faucet replacement, disposal replacement, sink installation, dishwasher installation, refrigerator water line
Water Heaters (4): water heater repair, water heater replacement, tankless conversion, water heater flush
Leaks & Water Lines (7): leak detection, slab leak spot repair, slab leak reroute, pipe leak repair, main water line repair, whole-house repipe, pipe insulation
Valves, Pumps & Misc (7): shutoff valve, hose bib, washing machine valves, PRV, recirculation pump, sump pump, water pressure booster pump, backflow test, backflow replacement
Gas & Water Quality (6): gas line (short), outdoor gas line (long), gas appliance connection, water softener, carbon filtration, reverse osmosis
Remodels (2): bathroom rough-in, kitchen rough-in
Emergency (1): after-hours dispatch
50 services. Full cost math on every one. No plumbing company in the country publishes this.